MM

Saw this the other day when I was way inland. Raddest photographer out there now. By far. New school takin' knowledge from the old school. You throwin' up tags now Morgan?!

Fun lil souths lately. But want more. Always!

1.6 @ 14secs from 200

Fishin'

As one ol' dude said out in the lineup after just me and him trading good sized sets for the first two hours of light this mornin'... "Man, the bats are swingin' today!"

Yep.


4.1 @ 17secs from 180

Think and Hunt

Pulled up in the foggy dark just as this irie Burning Spear song came on called Happy Day. Yes indeed! Skankin' in the dark in my wetsuit always starts my day right.

Don't draw violence...
Think for yourself...
Solve your own problems...
You can be a trip to know...

Love the words.

Huntin' around always helps on these hyped swells. Still couldn't be alone after 7am though. No matta 'cause got nuff long rides for the two hours before that.

But had to yell at a dude, first time in a long time if ever. Big outside set comes in and I am paddling out behind him. He ducks and lets his board go. "Hold yer board!" and he looks at me and continues to paddle. Next wave of the set and the fucker does it again. "FUCKYOU! Hold onto your fucking board. It ain't that fucking hard". So pissed. Don't want to miss out on summer because I have a gash on my head from some kook longboard fuck. Well, guess I didn't totally heed Spear's good words but it was necessary.


4.5 @ 17secs from 190

GLSA

Punchy south the last couple days. Good to get some souths again.

Mostly had to be confined to gross, touristy, dirty Hollywood. Saw a yellow pintail gun in a tourist shop up on the wall. And it seems like the G.L.S.A., lead by the Marshall Brothers, were in town there recently as well! How the hell did they shimmy up that high up sign to throw that sticker?!

Good to at least feel some surf in the middle of soul sucking Hollywood.

2.8 @ 17secs from 195

Now Ya Learnin'

How great is this photo? A early 80's (??) photo of Mr. Campbell checkin' out his bonzer's line. At Pipeline no less.

Always innovating. Always evolving. Always learnin'. Always adaptin'


Windy @ Windy from Too Windy

Soces

"It was all private land then and fenced off, but Phillips tolerated us climbing through his barrier to surf and dive as long as we didn’t disturb his cattle and other livestock on the beach. No other surfers went there. His house was where the lifeguard building is now. We eventually changed the name to Sequit after the Arroyo Sequit canyon that meets the beach there." - Mr. Porter

Surfed four points. Two different homemades. And one spectacular South. Did my part by not blabbing, 'net nor cellphone. The super dawn going to low tide darkish blue mornings blew my mind. Solo. Alone. Pumpin'. Only shared with others once 6:45am came around. Consistent enough for waves and smiles all around. Beautiful sunsets burnin' smog. Obviously Monday was the best.


2.4 @ 11secs from 225

Leisurely

Wish I knew the painter of the above because it explains my surf huntin' this weekend. Lazy trawling for waves. Crowds but find your pocket. FUN sets. So good to get back to the points. Definite evening sesh upcoming.


3.1 @ 17secs from 185

Presentin'

The Present: Cool 16mm film feel but a very clunky feel. Weird voiceovers that didn't go together or say anything new. Songs that would stop mid wave. Good waves with cool angles, but were sped up to nonsense. Nose cam of Rasta's mouth hanging open for 5 minutes. No thanks. This was not the movie I was so hyped on way back when this trailer came out. Shit back then, I was so stoked I even did a quick drunken late night awful remix of the trailer. I think I'd buy the trailer on DVD, but not the movie.

Five years to make this? Seems like a thrown together side project mishap that happened to come from a very talented guy.





2.8 @17secs from 170

Magic

Love board design. Love tryin' new things. Love tryin' old things. Love combinin' both. Love surfin' both.

Fun weekend testin' out my latest. It came out very close to "The Magic". Eerily close although I just found this pic.

Lookin' so forward to testin' it out on a couple nice Souths. Can't fuckin' wait.

4.1 @ 10secs from 310

Aura

This morning was refreshing. Smaller. But more shapely.

Love to listen to KZSC Santa Cruz every Tues. and Thurs. from 10-noon for some irie roots tunes.

The riddims and ambience make me feel like I have been transported back to that amazing area. Just got out of a kelpy fun reef session and pick up a breakfast burrito on the way back to a buddy's homebuilt trippy little cabin in the SC woods. Burn a couple down on the porch with the KZSC reggae show blastin'. Tweakin' boards. Repairin' dings. Talkin' smack. Chillin'. Getting' pumped up for the afternoon glassy surf. Ahhh, the life.

3.1 @ 14secs from 310

Get It

Just good skankin' fun out there today. Head high and fresh. The 5-6 hour was hard offshore, the 6-7 hour had a slight bump to it, and the final 1/2 hour was blown out and junky. Felt like I surfed 3 different spots today. Cool to see the lifeguards going out in a dingy just as I was getting out. They looked stoked as they were blasting through the whitewash.

Love surfin' in the the rainy mist. Some good juice to the swell.

4.1 @ 17secs from 205

Ledgy

"Rodney at Matakana Island, NZ 1975"

Felt so good to get some good drop and go's the last couple days.

Nothin' better than gray glassy dps.

2.6 @ 17secs from 305

Life

Grandfather's hands. Just turned 96. Full life. Hardcore carpenter and whittler. In his late years he would still go to whittling conventions where they would say, here is a block of wood, make a ____ out of it in 2 minutes. Amazing almost lost art.

He surprised me one year with a wood carved surfer. Not some cheesy stanced typical surfer Cardiff style. Nope, his was of an ancient Hawaiian, no trunks but a loincloth around his waist, even had him standing on a wave made of driftwood. Incredible to me. Should post a pic of it one day. Hopefully I picked up an ounce of his talent and drive and life.

My grandmother, his wife obviously, died recently and he is devastated. 76 years(!!!) of marriage will do that to you. Rad. Sad.

Need some cleansin' today. Keep on truckin' Grandpa!

4.1 @ 12secs from 295

Island Cane

Island style. Prime Primo. Ono.

Dude said that was the last sixer of his shipment. It'll help my homemade glassing go a little smoother today.

What is better than gettin' some decent waves this morning and then finishin' up your homemade while you try hard to imagine you are on the Islands instead of in your cold garage? Ha, not much.

3.1 @ 14secs from 290

Heaven

At a certain Ranch up north...

115 acres. Main House. Guest House. And Barn. All yours for just a hair under 11 million. hollisterranch130.com

3.2 @ 10secs from 305

Solitude

Not much to say lately. Other than gimmie this wave. I'll just bring a tent and my new homemade. Some beers to share with the locals around the fire at night. I'd be happy.

4.6 @ 10secs from 300

Lucky

Joe snaps. Surprisingly fun rainy stormy weekend. Had small windows both weekend days to surf and mostly drove down just to check it. Whoa! That looks good. And crowded. People jonesin'. Get me sick from runoff, don't care. Need waves. Repeat on Sunday.

Guess I lucked out although I heard some even better tales from the better spots.

4.2 @ 12secs from 310

Soon

Feels like just yesterday I was out waitin' for the final lumps of the final South of the summer. That turned into being stoked for Winter who was on her way.
Bigger lumps!
Cold bruisers!.
Beachbreak beatdowns!
Well that didn't really happen this season. Oh well.

Now I am back jonesin' and thinkin' about this sunrise view again. Super early dark sessions waitin' for dawn to break.
Shortjohn lovin'!
Warm peelers!
Pointbreak fishin'!!!
Well I hope that happens this season. Soon come.

1.1 @ 12secs from 310

Simplicity

Damn. Humans these days. Need the most up to date state of the art shit. Need wool-lined wetsuits to rip. Need a brand new surfboard every 6 months to shred. Need the latest skate trucks to ollie. Need the latest skateboard to grind. Need a masonite half pipe to thrash.

Not these dudes back in the day. Rippin' and shreddin' on the most warped, patched together, cheapest of wood ramps. And on those boards.

If you have the love, you'll find a way. Not the other way around.

2.2 @ 12secs from 310

Feelin' Foam

After that grand run of swell I have been a fairly lazy bum. Not risin' early in the morn. Not gettin' in the water. And not doing much. So I finally started to shave down my blank. Ahhh hot damn that feels good runnin' your hands along freshly cut foam.

Shapin' and surfing's such a perfect match. You make what you feel. And you feel what you make.

1.3 @ 8 secs from 305

All Right

No matta your politics, your religion, your race or your anything. You gotta be a little stoked that our new leader is throwin' shakas. Hang loose.

Yes we all need to.

Fun surfin'. Swell stickin' around still. Tighter periods lead to silky fast walls. Hopefully tomorrow still has some left.

3.9 @ 14secs from 280

Surfer

Medium sized fun beautifully sunny day in LA. Warm air and crisp water is a perfect combo. Took out the 5'8" homemade single for a different kick.

Surfed with the kneeboarder again who is stoked on a altered twin fin which he carved out this trippy tail. He would just drop so late and grab the highline so fast on it.

Amazing thing is that he only has one leg. He crawls out of the water over to his crutches. Then he balances his board and hobbles the 1/2 mile walk to the car. Such an inspiration every time I see him. Always give a wave and never take your life for granted.

4.1 @ 20secs from 285

Swifty

Curren screamin' on a 5'6". Lovin' it. Nothing better than super short wide boards.

Found over at the Swift Surfboards site....

"FUN CAN'T BE STOPPED. SIMMONS'S PHILOSOPHY WAS TO BUILD
JUST ENOUGH BOARDS TO SUPPORT HIS SURFING HABIT."

Great philosphy.


1.5 @ 8secs from 315

Full and Low

Gimmie that right off the headland. Stony mindsurfin'. Bucolic paintin'. Then lemme build a house up there. Stairsteppin' down to the shore. I'd need nothin' much more.

Brightest full moon this weekend. Lowest of the minus tides this weekend. Santa Ana's howlin'.

We are all on the sea's clock.

2.6 @ 13secs from 305

Summer Love

Been away from the ocean for far too long but it didn't sound like I missed much if anything. Strapping on a snowboard, piggin' out on holiday crap, and seeing different parts of the country. Get back into town and see an out of season south showin'. Stoked!

Hit the ol' fun summer spot and was the first out. About as fuckin' freezing as it gets around here, 39 air and low 50's water but no matter. Fun chest sets rollin' in which got me back in the fishy fun groove. Man I have missed those long ass point waves. Didn't feel too kooky on my ol' homemade either. Didn't miss the outta shape paddle back outs though.

It was so clear this morning, you could see another island out there past Catalina. I guess it was San Nicolas Island or San Clemente Island? Never seen it before. You can see a piece of the island in this snap I nicked from swellmagnet.

Looks like the south is already tapering off, hope you all got some surf somehow over the holidays!


2.7 @17secs from 185

Sharin'

And carin'. Grey cold days up North with buddies and family. This snap of family swapin' boards on a beautiful day. I kept the swap for a couple of days to get a handle on it. Felt weird to ride an over 6' board. But even weirder to see my brother ridin' my homemade better than I ever have. Fucking ass.

Twas a good holiday, hopefully for all.

1.9 @ 12secs from 310

Once more

A reposted snap I took way back in the early days of pushingtide. Rememberin' this good day. Offshore. Overhead. Warm air. Hidden gems.

Man Christmas seemed better back then!

Oh well. Get barrelled this holiday!!

4.1 @ 14secs from 310

Yes

Nicked this from somewhere on the web...


This is really only what you need in life.

Nature.
Shelter.
Fish.


Poo @ poo secs from poo degrees

The Frogfish!

6'9"x20 1/2"x2 5/8" Mid 1970's. Shaped by Bobby Kazanis.






5'3"x20x2 3/8" Late 2008. Shaped by Pushingtide.


Frogfish. Discovered in the mid 1800's. Shaped by Mother Nature.

I know I already talked shit about this recreation. I know I said it felt kooky to ride. But I am kinda kooky too so who knows. It was still a fun experience and the ol’ board was resurrected! And it floats. I’ll take her out again in the future.

“Frogfish are small in nature. They don’t swim in a conventional way. And their camouflage is further aided by numerous warts and filaments on their skin.” -wikipedia.

Shit that sounds like my board!!! Perfect.

2.1 @ 14secs from 305

Amphibian

If you make the trip along the coast down by El Porto and El Segundo way, I am sure you have seen this boat washed up on its side, layin' on land. It has been there for over a month and lately it has got some good ol' graff thrown up on it. I am sure some dudes are living in it by now too.

I need to get a closer look, this snap taken as I was driving by. Anyone know the story on it?

Didn't surf this morn. Should have.

3.8 @17secs from 275